Guide · 3 min read
Curly and Coily Wash Day: Step by Step
The short answer
Clean the scalp, make detangling easier, then give the finish enough hold. Your natural pattern and the style you want are different decisions; neither tells us the scalp’s wash schedule on its own.
Want this done properly?
Perm in London (Wavement)
Curl built for your hair, 6+ months. Cold £219.95–£419.95 · Hot £389.95–£659.95, by length.
Perm in London →Clean the scalp when it needs it. Make the knots easier. Then give your curls enough hold. How curly you are does not tell me how often your scalp needs shampoo.
Start after your treatment allows washing
My fresh Cold and Hot usually need 48 hours without washing. If another salon did yours, keep its advice first. For Hot, use the finish I showed you. The name does not give every head the same drying method.
My approach: conditioner helps you handle it. Gel helps you keep the shape.
01. Decide whether a mask belongs today
I like a suitable mask on dry lengths before the shower. Put it on, get on with something else, then wash. Choose one made for that use and keep its timing. Only sleep in it if the bottle allows it.
You do not need an extra shampoo day just to fit a mask in.
02. Clean the scalp
Go gently while it’s wet. Hair is especially fragile when it is wet. Squeeze or blot, do not rub, and never pull through a knot.
First, do you need shampoo? If you wet your hair three, four, five or seven times a week, some of those can be fresh-water rinses. Water can rinse away sweat salts and loose dirt when the scalp still feels clean. Shampoo removes excess oil and stubborn product. On a shampoo day, wet thoroughly with comfortably warm water. Mix the shampoo for this wash with water in a separate bottle. Spread it across the scalp and massage gently. It is easier to apply and helps you use less. Rinse the mixing bottle afterwards.
Let the lather run through the lengths. Do not scrub them into a heap. One shampoo is usually enough; repeat if needed or directed. Medicated shampoo has its own directions.
03. Condition, detangle, rinse
Put conditioner through the lengths, including underneath. Take a section you can manage. Start at the tips with fingers or a suitable comb. Move higher once the ends are free. Stop at a knot instead of pulling. Then rinse properly: lift the hair so water reaches underneath, behind the ears and at the nape. Rinse as the bottle tells you. My three-to-five-minute reminder is there if you rush, not a timer for everyone.
For coils, smaller sections can make the job easier. Give dry lengths the conditioner they need. The scalp does not automatically need the same rich coating.
04. Mix the two styling jobs
My usual pair is leave-in conditioner and strong-hold gel. Mix them in your hands just before use. There is no ratio for every head. Leave-in is for moisture and softness; gel is for hold. You control the balance to suit your day. Need more hold? Try more gel before you add more conditioner.
Spread through wet sections, including underneath. Arrange or scrunch the movement without stretching it straight. If the pair flakes or separates, change the pair or try leave-in followed by gel. Do not store the mixture. Mixing does not prove heat protection.
05. Dry, then soften
Put the shape in, then leave it alone to dry. Air-drying is fine if it works for you. I also like gentle diffusing to about halfway, then letting the rest dry naturally. Halfway is my styling method, not a scientific target.
Your leave-in and gel go on while the hair is wet. Once it is completely dry, gently scrunch to soften the gel already there. No extra product is needed for this step. Leave-in gives moisture; gel gives hold. See how the finished hair feels, then adjust the amounts next time. You do not need oil on top: leave-in and gel already make two. If you need heat protection, choose it within those two products or use less heat.
Tonight and next time
Once your treatment allows tying, gather long curls loosely high on your head with a soft scrunchie. Keep the lengths above the pillow. If it pulls, loosen it or try a comfortable bonnet. Short hair can stay untied. Day 2–4 shows a small refresh. It is not a reason to delay washing an uncomfortable scalp.
Questions
Does this also work after Straightment?
Yes, if there is movement left, you want to wear it and your aftercare allows styling.
Do you mix or layer leave-in and gel?
I usually mix a compatible leave-in and gel in my hands for immediate use. No fixed ratio and no stored mixture.
Do coily curls need more than two stylers?
No. Work through sections and adjust the amount where you need it. My maximum is still two.
Must I diffuse exactly halfway?
No. About halfway is an option I like. You do not need to measure it.
Can I add oil to soften the cast?
Leave it fully dry first. Soften gently without adding a third bottle.
What I look for
Before I choose anything, I look at:
- Your natural pattern.
- Your condition.
- Your previous chemical history.
- Your colour history.
- What you want the hair to do.
- How far the hair needs to move.
I use the Zoltan tecSture Scale™ as part of that assessment.
When I say no
If the hair cannot safely do what you are asking, I say so.
Sometimes it is: No.
Sometimes it is: Not yet.
Sometimes it is: We need to do less.
Sometimes the hair needs repair first.
I would rather lose an appointment than lose your hair.
The treatment
Perm in London (Wavement)
Curl built for your hair, 6+ months. Cold £219.95–£419.95 · Hot £389.95–£659.95, by length.
See the pricesYou tell me the result. I choose the chemistry.
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Keep reading
All Hair Guides →Are you a pro? The full technique is on tecSture. For hairdressers →
Want this done properly?
Perm in London (Wavement)
Curl built for your hair, 6+ months. Cold £219.95–£419.95 · Hot £389.95–£659.95, by length.
Prices and booking →